Planting a tree or shrub is a simple process that anyone can do. Planting techniques may vary slightly depending on the type of product (bare root, balled and burlapped, or container-grown), but the recommendations in this article focus on planting trees and shrubs in containers.
Before anything else, proper planning is essential.
Before even putting a shovel in the ground, it’s important to plan your planting project. This step is key to ensuring long-term success and plant survival.
Understanding your planting site is critical to choosing the right species.
To make sure you plant the right tree or the right shrub in the right place, consider the conditions of your site. These must match the needs of the selected species.
- Is the site sunny or shaded?
- Is the soil well drained or poorly drained?
- Is the soil loose or compacted?
- Are there nearby constraints (power lines, buildings, pools, septic systems)?
This pre-planting reflection is likely the most important step. As the saying goes: the right plant in the right place—while remembering that planting a tree is good for the planet.
Planting a Tree or Shrub in Simple Steps
Preparing the plant:
Remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. If the roots are sparse and the root ball is slightly loose, do nothing—that’s ideal. However, if the roots are dense or circling, gently loosen them along the sides and bottom of the root ball.
Place the plant back in its pot and thoroughly soak it. Fully saturating the root ball before planting helps reduce transplant shock.
Digging the hole:
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and at least twice as wide. Set the excavated soil aside in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp, removing large debris and rocks. You can mix in about 30% compost and use this blend to refill the hole later.
Identifying the root flare:
This is a crucial step. The root flare is the transition zone between the trunk and the roots—it is the slightly widened base of the trunk. It must remain visible after planting and sit just above ground level. Planting too deep can lead to rot. To help guide placement, mark the root flare with a temporary ribbon before planting.
Placing the plant in the hole:
Place the root ball in the hole, ensuring the root flare aligns with the natural soil surface. You may need to add soil at the bottom if the hole is too deep. Make sure the trunk is centred and straight. Backfill using the amended soil.
You may also use a high-quality planting mix if your soil is very poor. Firm the soil gently without overcompacting. Avoid air pockets, as they can dry out the roots and compromise plant survival. Recheck that the root flare remains above ground level. Finish by creating a soil berm around the planting hole to form a watering basin.
Water, water, and more water:
Water deeply and thoroughly. Apply water in several passes to ensure even soil moisture. If watering causes the soil to settle, add more soil as needed.
Until the plant establishes its root system in the surrounding soil, it relies entirely on the original root ball for water and nutrients. If the root ball dries out, the plant may suffer from drought stress—even if surrounding soil appears moist.
Monitor soil moisture daily in the days following planting.
Mulching:
Apply 5 to 10 cm of organic mulch in a circle about 30 cm around the trunk. Keep mulch away from direct contact with the trunk (about 10 cm clearance) to prevent rot. Mulch helps retain soil moisture, regulate temperature, and reduce weed growth.
When Is the Best Time to Plant Trees and Shrubs in Eastern Canada?
A Chinese proverb says: The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago. The second best time is now. In Eastern Canada, “now” generally means any time between spring thaw and fall freeze-up.
Tips for choosing the right planting time:
A cool, cloudy day is ideal. Avoid heatwaves and drought periods. If unavoidable, increase watering accordingly.
In spring, make sure the soil has thawed and that the plants have fully completed their winter dormancy. Plants coming from heated greenhouses may not have completed cold-hardening process and may be vulnerable to frost.
Fall is an excellent time for planting. Droughts are less frequent, and extreme heat is rare. While above-ground growth slows, roots continue developing until the soil freezes.
Most species can be successfully planted in fall up until the first hard frosts.
For less hardy species, consider winter protection or opt for spring planting to improve survival in harsh Canadian winters.
Should trees be staked?
In most cases, the answer is no—unless:
- The tree cannot stand upright on its own (common with fast-growing species like Weeping Willow);
- The site is unstable, waterlogged, or prone to flooding;
- The site is exposed to strong winds.
Staking is a temporary measure. It should be removed as soon as possible to allow the tree to develop a strong trunk and root system. In most cases, stakes can be removed after one year. Gently move the trunk—if the root ball remains stable, staking is no longer needed.
Protecting trees and shrubs from rodents and browsing
Installing a perforated white tree guard or wire mesh around the base of the trunk can be very effective. These solutions are inexpensive and easy to install. Be sure to remove them in spring to prevent moisture buildup and rot.
If deer are present in your area, consider installing browse protection for deciduous trees and shrubs.
These protections should remain in place until the tree canopy is out of reach. Commercial products are available but can be costly.
With a bit of creativity, it’s also possible to make effective protection using recycled materials.
“To succeed in life, a man must have a child, write a book, and plant a tree.” — Compay Segundo (1907–2003)
